Whelping Advice	Healthy Breeding and Whelping
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WHELPING FLOW CHART
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THE USE OF OXYTOCIN DURING WHELPING

ECLAMPSIA AND CALCIUM

REVIVING NEWBORN PUPPIES

AFTER WHELPING CHECKS

Whelping Guide: What to Expect and How to Help

Whelping can be a stressful process for both the breeder and the bitch, although most dogs are perfectly capable of delivering their puppies without assistance. Understanding the stages of labour and knowing when intervention may be needed can help prevent problems and ensure the safety of both mother and puppies.

Pregnancy and Gestation

The average gestation period for dogs is approximately 61–65 days, although a variation of a day either way is normal. If your bitch has gone beyond 65 days without showing signs of labour, contact your veterinarian for advice.

From mating to whelping can range from 55–70 days, as sperm can survive within the female reproductive tract for up to 7–9 days before fertilising the eggs.

Signs That Labour Is Beginning

First Stage Labour

The first stage of labour can last anywhere from 10–24 hours. During this time, your bitch may show some or all of the following signs:

• Restlessness and nesting behaviour
• Frequent licking of the vulva
• Vomiting
• A clear mucus discharge
• Loss of appetite (around 90% of bitches stop eating within 24 hours of labour)

Some breeders monitor temperature twice daily. In many bitches, there is a drop in temperature to around 36.5–37°C before labour begins. However, the temperature usually rises back to normal and it is easy to miss the drop.

Important: It is not the drop itself that indicates delivery is imminent, but the return to normal temperature. A puppy should generally be born within six hours of the temperature returning to normal.

When a greyish sac appears at the vulva, it usually means a puppy is on the way. The first puppy should normally arrive within an hour of the sac becoming visible. If not, contact your vet immediately.

Many breeders allow the bitch to manage the process herself. While some mothers instinctively know exactly what to do, others can become confused and may need assistance.

Second Stage Labour

During the second stage of labour:

• The bitch will begin actively pushing using abdominal contractions.
• She may lie down or squat while delivering.
• Puppies are usually born within 10–60 minutes after strong contractions begin.
• Each puppy is enclosed in a membrane, similar to the "water breaking" in humans.
• Breech deliveries are common and occur in around 40% of puppies.
• The mother will usually remove the membrane and stimulate the puppy to breathe by licking it.

You can assist by rubbing the puppy vigorously with a towel if additional stimulation is needed. Some weak puppies may benefit from puppy revival products such as Life Drops.

Assisting During Delivery

This is the method I was taught by an experienced breeder.

The Membrane

Puppies are born enclosed in a thin membrane that resembles cling film. This membrane must be removed promptly to prevent suffocation. Sometimes the sac breaks naturally during delivery.

Once the membrane is removed, the mother will usually lick the puppy to stimulate breathing. If she does not, rub the puppy firmly with a clean towel until it begins breathing and crying on its own.

The Placenta

The placenta (afterbirth) usually accompanies each puppy, although it can be delivered 5–15 minutes later.

While many bitches will naturally want to eat the placentas, I limit this to no more than two. Eating too many can cause severe diarrhoea, which is the last thing you need when caring for a nursing mother and newborn litter.

Keep count of both puppies and placentas throughout the whelping process. The number should match by the end of labour. If any placentas are unaccounted for, the bitch may pass them later, but veterinary advice should be sought if there is any doubt.

The Umbilical Cord

Most bitches will chew through the umbilical cord themselves. However, some can be overly enthusiastic, pulling on the cord and potentially causing an umbilical hernia. There have also been reports of inexperienced or overexcited mothers accidentally injuring puppies while chewing cords.

For this reason, many breeders prefer to manage the cords themselves.

You can tear the cord using your fingernails approximately 2 inches (5 cm) from the puppy's abdomen. If using scissors, tie the cord first using thread or dental floss around ½ inch (1.25 cm) from the puppy's body.

When cutting, it is preferable to crush rather than make a perfectly clean cut, as this helps reduce bleeding. Afterwards, dip the cord end in iodine or an antiseptic solution.

General Whelping Information

Unlike humans, breech births are considered normal in dogs.

An ultrasound scan can provide a good estimate of litter size, although remember that puppies may be reabsorbed during early pregnancy, particularly around 4–5 weeks.

Depending on breed and litter size, the entire whelping process can last anywhere from 2–20 hours.

Once the last puppy has arrived and both mother and puppies appear settled, take the mother outside briefly to urinate. Afterwards, return her to the whelping box so the puppies can begin nursing.

Calcium During Lactation

Once milk production begins, the mother's calcium requirements increase significantly.

Many breeders have observed even the calmest and most tolerant bitches becoming irritable or unusually reactive during lactation. In some cases, this may be linked to increased calcium demands.

I personally begin calcium supplementation as soon as the puppies are born and continue throughout lactation until weaning. Always discuss supplementation with your veterinarian to ensure it is appropriate for your bitch.

Cleaning the Whelping Box

Once you are confident that all puppies have been delivered and all placentas have passed (an ultrasound can confirm if you are unsure), remove all soiled bedding and replace it with clean vet bedding.

Supporting Milk Production

If your bitch appears to have a low milk supply, improvements can often be made through:

• A high-quality, protein-rich diet
• Adequate hydration
• Fenugreek (approximately one teaspoon daily mixed with food)

Always consult your vet before introducing supplements.

When to Seek Urgent Veterinary Attention

Contact your vet immediately if you notice any of the following:

• Unproductive straining for 30 minutes or more
• More than 3 hours between puppies
• Green or black discharge from the vulva before a puppy is born
• Labour stopping unexpectedly (uterine inertia)
• A puppy visibly stuck in the birth canal (dystocia)

If in any doubt, seek veterinary advice.

Caring for Newborn Puppies

Puppies must stay warm and well-fed. A cold puppy will not nurse properly.

The mother should normally provide both warmth and nutrition. However, if she rejects the litter or cannot produce sufficient milk, you will need to step in.

Signs Puppies Are Hungry

Hungry puppies will:

• Cry excessively
• Seem restless
• Constantly search for something to suckle

Supplemental feeding can be provided using puppy milk replacer and feeding bottles designed for newborn puppies.

Keeping Puppies Warm

Lethargic puppies are often cold puppies.

Normal rectal temperatures are:

• First week: 35–37.2°C (95–99°F)
• Second and third weeks: 36.1–37.8°C (97–100°F)
• Fourth week onward: 37.8–38.9°C (100–102°F)

A body temperature below 34.3°C (94°F) can be life-threatening.

If a puppy becomes chilled, it must be warmed slowly over 30–60 minutes. Rapid warming can cause serious complications and even death.

Recommended environmental temperatures:

• Days 1–4: 29.4–32.2°C (85–90°F)
• Days 7–10: approximately 26.7°C (80°F)
• By 4 weeks: approximately 22.2°C (72°F)

Large litters may require less environmental heat because puppies naturally share body warmth.

Heating the Whelping Box

Some books recommend maintaining temperatures of 30–35°C, but many experienced breeders find this unnecessarily warm.

Personally, I aim for a box temperature of around 26°C.

The whelping area should be:

• Draft-free
• Quiet
• Away from household traffic and noise

Stress can cause a mother to move her puppies in search of a safer location.

I prefer using a heat pad positioned in one corner of the whelping box. This allows puppies to move towards or away from the heat as needed, while preventing the mother from becoming overheated under a heat lamp.

Heat pads also provide a more consistent temperature than hot water bottles, which cool quickly.

Bedding

Newspaper is not recommended.

Besides concerns about inks and dyes, newspaper provides a slippery surface. In large-breed puppies, this can place strain on developing joints and may contribute to structural issues later in life.

Vet bedding is a much safer option because it:

• Provides excellent grip
• Keeps puppies dry
• Allows fluids to drain away from the surface
• Offers comfort and insulation

The Next Few Weeks

For the first two weeks, your main role is monitoring the mother and ensuring the puppies are feeding and thriving.

As long as the bitch is caring for them properly, she will do most of the work herself.

At around 2½–3 weeks of age, you can begin introducing solid food—and that's when the real fun begins!